Imagine the aroma of warm, fluffy masa, the heart of a family's legacy, rising with the steam from a pot. For Chicago chef Jhoana Ruiz, this isn't just a holiday tradition; it's a vibrant connection to her roots and a testament to the enduring power of family.
Ruiz's first encounter with a tamale, a sweet, pink, strawberry-flavored 'tamal de fresa,' ignited a lifelong love. Now, with her husband Danny Espinoza, they channel this passion into Santa Masa Tamaleria, a restaurant celebrating their Mexican heritage.
On a recent December evening, Ruiz's family gathered in their Bensenville home, a tradition echoing through many Mexican, Mexican-American, and Latino households during Christmas. These 'Tamaladas,' as they're affectionately known, are more than just cooking parties; they're multi-generational celebrations.
And this is the part most people miss... It's not just about the food; it's about the shared stories and laughter that season each tamale. Ruiz's memories of her grandmother, Purificación Rodriguez, grinding corn on a 'metate,' a traditional stone slab, are as integral to the flavor as the masa itself.
Tamales also honor Espinoza’s family, who have made corundas, a triangle-shaped variation from the state of Michoacán in Mexico, for generations.
In Chicago's vibrant Latino neighborhoods, handmade tamales are a staple. However, this year's immigration crackdown forced many tamale vendors into the shadows. But within homes like Ruiz's, the beloved dish thrives.
For their tamalada, Ruiz brought ready-to-use masa from Santa Masa Tamaleria, setting it on the dining nook, a space where countless family meals have been shared.
“It’s the nook where we shared our joys and pains,” said her mother, Victoria Vázquez, in Spanish.
Gathered around the table, generations worked together, scooping dough, and choosing from a diverse array of fillings: black and white beans, cheese, chicken tinga, chorizo verde, and chicken in various sauces. Santa Masa Tamaleria's masa, made from non-GMO white corn grown in Mexico, enhances the flavor and consistency.
Ruiz's father, Martin Ruiz, cut banana leaves, lightly roasted by his uncle Joaquin Aguirre. Across Mexico and Latin America, corn husks and banana leaves are used to make tamales, with banana leaves widely used in Southern Mexico, Central and South America.
Each family member personalized their tamales, passing them to Vázquez and Jhoana Ruiz for cooking. As the tamales simmered, the kitchen buzzed with conversation, tequila, and traditional Mexican cocktails.
As his grandson Leonel Espinoza played by his side, Martin Ruiz remembered the weekends when his family would hit the road first thing Saturday morning and head to a beach along Mexico’s coast or a small town near Mexico City. By breakfast time, the family was eating some of the local food, he said.
But here's where it gets controversial... The family has also embraced Ruiz and Espinoza’s new takes on tamales at Santa Masa Tamaleria, using unconventional ingredients and fillings like Italian beef and turkey confit.
Esteban Vázquez, Ruiz’s grandfather, stuffed his tamale with chorizo verde and cheese, his new favorite combination.
“This is a well-stuffed tamal, abuelito,” Ruiz said, smiling as she wrapped the overflowing dough with an extra corn husk.
When the tamales were cooked, the kitchen fell silent as the family savored the fruits of their labor.
“That is how you know these are good,” Ruiz said.
As the chatter and laughter faded, four generations shared the freshly made tamales, shaping memories that will last a lifetime.
What are your family's favorite holiday traditions? Do you have any unique or unconventional tamale fillings you love? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
